Masonry Walls and Ceilings. Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in much the same manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary to allow adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be given to the preparation of the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for example), it is essential to take precautions against the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints are to follow. Most of us look to save where we can, especially in this day and economic conditions. House painting is no different, when it comes to saving money. A home exterior weathers from harsh elements of heat, cold, sun, and snow, and exterior paint ages over time needing repainting. Exterior trim, being that of solid wood is normally the first to show signs of painting maintenance. Many times a homeowner happens to call, asking for only painting the trim. Trim paint jobs sound good at first, but have some underlying thoughts may have not been considered. Below are things to consider when considering painting trim only. Amateur house painters never had as much help as today. Scores of new paints and equipment placed on the market in the last few years make it possible for the weekend handyman to paint his own house almost as easily as a professional. From one-coat paints to disposable blowtorches, everything has been designed to make the job go faster, look better and cost less.
Cold water paints of the casein type may be applied either directly to a plastered surface, or the surface may be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the product being given preference in case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil in the binder, they should ordinarily be applied only to plaster which has dried thoroughly. Materials and their application, every paint manufacturers paint will vary. If you are freshening up old walls and painting back to the existing color, the product doesn't have to be high end or have good coverage. If you need to paint a dark color over light color or light color over dark, you may want to consider purchasing a top quality paint to avoid multiple coats. I suggest Valspar, Pittsburgh or Benjamin Moore top of the line wall paint. These brands work well for straight out of the bucket use and are application friendly. Sherwin Williams is not my first choice because the coverage is poor and you will have to apply multiple coats but, it does apply, fluently. If you find a product does not apply well, maybe it is to heavy and/or sagging on the wall, you may need to thin the paint with a little water, this will reduce the coverage but make the paint flow better and lay down nicer on the surface. I do recommend latex paints for all applications, these days a good high end latex is as good as oil paint and your tools clean up much easier, it will also be less harsh on the respiratory system. The only situation I recommend oil paint, is as a primer/stain blocker over stains that "bleed" through the paint. You can get a stain blocking oil primer in a convenient spray can and spot prime any trouble areas before painting and in the case you need to prime all of the wall due to smoke or water damage, I recommend getting it in gallons and rolling it on where the stains are present. Don't forget proper ventilation and/or a respirator when using the oil based primers! Intensity refers to a colors brightness or saturation. Intensity refers to how pure a color is. For instance, if you were to use cadmium red straight from the tube, it would have a high intensity. If you were to mix it with another color however, its intensity would be diminished. Tools, there is a wide variety of brushes and rollers to choose from, it is critical to select quality tools and maintain them. We will discuss brushes first, I use and recommend only Purdy brand brushes, they will give you the best results in terms of coverage and make the project go much easier and quicker. A Purdy brush is a little more expensive but if kept clean promptly after each use and stored properly, it will last for years and many projects. Most any other brushes out there, especially the cheap ones, are made of far inferior hair and I liken them to using a hand (or whisk) broom to paint with. Using lower quality tools will only frustrate you and lead you to assume that you are incapable of painting. You are capable! and the proper tools, materials, and advise are all you need. If your painting project will be on going for a couple of days, you can wet the brush with paint, wrap the brush up in a plastic sandwich bag and tape the plastic bag to the handle above the metal ferrule. Sealing it up will keep it from drying out, storing it flat will maintain the shape and permit you to use it for a couple of days without cleaning it. Because, after a couple of days or if it has had extended use on a hot day, it will loose its shape and start to collect a lot of dried paint on the hair, you should clean it with warm water and a wire brush. Once you have ran some water through the brush hair, the wire brush will then be used to remove the dried paint from the hair. Always run the wire brush down the entire length of the hair and never across it, to prevent crimping and damaging the hair. After you get the brush clean, spin it between your two hands, shedding as much water as possible from it. Then, using the wire brush again, comb the hair, shape/style the hair with your hands and lay it flat to dry. Once dry, if you will not be using the paint brush again soon, protect it by storing it in the paper shuck/cover that it came in and it will be like new the next time you use it.