One precaution: You can't paint with it in cold weather. The chemical reaction that transforms the water solution into a durable finish will not take place if the temperature is below 50°. (Conventional oil paints don't stick well in cold weather, either.) OK, let's get started. Step one...supplies. You need a flat brush, a fan, a small detail brush and a couple of Filberts. A filbert is a rounded edge brush that lets you maneuver the paint easily without going outside the edges. Ultimately buy brushes that you like though, and make them work. Fans allow you to blend, for example. I use fans a lot and it's how I graduate color throughout my images. Everything I paint is by hand....no airbrushing or assistants. I want it to be an expression of me and nobody else. You also need an oil painting medium to mix with the oil paint to make it more fluid, and to speed or slow the drying process. Whichever you prefer. Go to the art store and don't be afraid to ask for help....they'll love helping you! A medium is merely an additive liquid which increases gloss, makes it flow easily, preserves the finish over time, keeps it from yellowing. I personally love Galkyd and Galkyd Lite. If that isn't available, buy a medium that looks like liquid amber and is kind of thick. Don't buy watery looking mediums....too hard to work with. A Dog Painting of Your Favorite Breed. The classics may not be the right choice for your home and that's okay. You can find paintings of your favorite dog breeds in many different forms at a number of easy to get to locations. Pet stores have them, as do gift shops and department stores. Adorn your walls with images of your favorites or classics produced centuries ago. Your final choice is entirely up to you and will be different from anyone else's. The only real common bond between dog owners is their love of the animal itself. Others will know looking at your walls and mantles that you share that love.
When you have all the tools at hand, examine your exterior. You might find exterior painting problems, which could be any of the following: alligatoring, blistering, chalking, chalk run down, crackling, dirt pickup, efflorescence, fading, frosting, lapping, mildew, nail head rusting, paint incompatibility, peeling, poor alkali resistance, poor adhesion, poor gloss retention, surfacent leaching, staining, vinyl siding wrap, wax bleed, or wrinkling. The stencil must be held very firmly against the surface with one hand, and the stencil brush worked over it quickly with the other hand. Or, if you have an assistant, it is best for one person to keep the stencil steady, while the other does the painting. In removing the stencil, make sure you pick it up without smudging. TERTIARY COLORS. Tertiary colors are made by mixing one primary color with one secondary color. For instance, mixing the primary color blue with the secondary color green, will give you a tertiary color called blue-green. The correct roller to use depends on the texture of the wall. On smooth walls you will need a 1/2" nap and on textured surfaces it will be more like a 3/4" - 1" nap depending on how rough the texture is. I always recommend a lamb skin, it will lay the paint off the best and provide maximum coverage. A roller pole is also great for saving your back, shoulder and arms from repetitious bending over and extension. If you will be using the roller for a couple of days, the same rule applies as with the brush, seal it in plastic completely to preserve it for the next day. Do not leave the roller submersed in paint or water over night, this will cause premature failure, by releasing the skin from the hardboard backing it is attached to. If you will be rolling a rough texture, like a stucco, make sure to purchase a roller frame (arm) that is sturdy and will hold up to constant applied pressure.