Wood Walls and Trim. New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain of the wood, the surface may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used as a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be applied over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.
Scuff for paint. Once your Mustang is totally stripped of exterior chrome it's time to scuff up the existing paint. The paint shop should do this also, but on the lower end paint packages they won't spend much time here. It's better for you to do it so you know it's done thoroughly.
In this section are some tips on techniques and tools that make it easier to paint your house than ever before - not the way the "pro" does, perhaps, but with much the same results.
Remember, you will need to clean the airless in that same fashion before you return the airless back to the rental company.
SECONDARY COLORS. When you mix two primary colors together, you get a secondary color. The secondary colors are orange, green and violet. Orange is made by mixing red with yellow. Green is made by mixing blue and yellow. Violet is made my mixing blue with red.
Color - The paint makers are out to sell the lady of the house and color is their come-on. They are tempting her with a kaleidoscope's variety; one firm offers more than 6,000 different shades.
Analyze your existing paint. The first step before determining if a budget paint job will work on your Mustang is to assess the current condition of the paint. In many cases you can prep and paint directly over an existing paint job, but only if it's in solid shape.