The non-disease-carrying head louse differs from the related disease-carrying body louse (Pediculus humanus humanus) in preferring to attach eggs to scalp hair rather than to clothing. The two subspecies are morphologically almost identical, but do not normally interbreed, although they will do so in laboratory conditions. From genetic studies, they are thought to have diverged as subspecies about 30,000–110,000 years ago, when many humans began to wear a significant amount of clothing. A much more distantly related species of hair-clinging louse, the pubic or crab louse (Pthirus pubis), also infests humans. It is visually different from the other two species and is much closer in appearance to the lice which infest other primates. Lice infestation of any part of the body is known as pediculosis.
STENCILING. You may want designs on the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in some of the rooms or hallway. You may buy or make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made of lightweight paper which will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to use, as it will depend a great deal on the surface over which you want to put the stenciled designs. Generally a heavy paint is used, so that it will not spread under the stencil while you are applying it. Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine consists of powdered whiting and clay mixed with an animal-glue binder and a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but can be easily washed off before redecorating. Limewash - Made from slaked lime and water, this paint is good for porous surfaces such as brickwork, render and plaster and gives a chalky finish. It is available from specialist companies.
Proper rolling technique: When rolling paint on the wall, get the roller skin evenly loaded with paint and make a V,N or M pattern on the wall, this is to spread the paint across the entire section you will be rolling, then roll back across the section and even out the paint. To properly "lay off" each section, make a final pass of the section applying light pressure to the roller frame arm end of the roller skin and bringing the nap mark (mark created on the pressure applied side of roller skin) across from the beginning of the section to the end of the section, and just repeat all the way down the wall.The V,N or M pattern, will be determine by how far the paint will spread, a V is for less spreading paint and M is for farther spreading paints. Do not "dry roll", which means trying to roll to much of a section at once with very little paint on the roller. Just as important, do not apply to much, if you find you are applying to much, increase the size of the section you are painting i.e. from a V pattern to an N or a N pattern to a M. What emotions does it produce? Tools, there is a wide variety of brushes and rollers to choose from, it is critical to select quality tools and maintain them. We will discuss brushes first, I use and recommend only Purdy brand brushes, they will give you the best results in terms of coverage and make the project go much easier and quicker. A Purdy brush is a little more expensive but if kept clean promptly after each use and stored properly, it will last for years and many projects. Most any other brushes out there, especially the cheap ones, are made of far inferior hair and I liken them to using a hand (or whisk) broom to paint with. Using lower quality tools will only frustrate you and lead you to assume that you are incapable of painting. You are capable! and the proper tools, materials, and advise are all you need. If your painting project will be on going for a couple of days, you can wet the brush with paint, wrap the brush up in a plastic sandwich bag and tape the plastic bag to the handle above the metal ferrule. Sealing it up will keep it from drying out, storing it flat will maintain the shape and permit you to use it for a couple of days without cleaning it. Because, after a couple of days or if it has had extended use on a hot day, it will loose its shape and start to collect a lot of dried paint on the hair, you should clean it with warm water and a wire brush. Once you have ran some water through the brush hair, the wire brush will then be used to remove the dried paint from the hair. Always run the wire brush down the entire length of the hair and never across it, to prevent crimping and damaging the hair. After you get the brush clean, spin it between your two hands, shedding as much water as possible from it. Then, using the wire brush again, comb the hair, shape/style the hair with your hands and lay it flat to dry. Once dry, if you will not be using the paint brush again soon, protect it by storing it in the paper shuck/cover that it came in and it will be like new the next time you use it. Spend some time talking to the shop manager. He should have the time to thoroughly go over your options and explain their service and pricing. Be clear on what they're doing exactly. Will they scuff your existing paint? Will they be spraying primer? Are they OK painting any loose parts like bumper-ettes? If you're changing colors be sure to discuss the door jambs, trunk area and underside of the hood. Also, get instructions from the shop in writing for proper care of your fresh paint. It will include the number of paint curing days before you can wash it, wax it or let it sit out in the weather.