Preparation, the key to a successful paint job is to take the correct steps when preparing the job. Preparation for this article, has two parts, the first part is wall prep. The walls you are going to paint may have nail holes or imperfections that need to be filled before you paint. The proper way to fill them, if they are smaller is with water putty, by simply forcing a little bit of the putty in the hole and breaking it off flush with the surface. For larger depressions, use a drywall compound or spackle, which may require a second application to fully fill the indentation and make the repair/"patch" flush with the wall. Materials and their application, every paint manufacturers paint will vary. If you are freshening up old walls and painting back to the existing color, the product doesn't have to be high end or have good coverage. If you need to paint a dark color over light color or light color over dark, you may want to consider purchasing a top quality paint to avoid multiple coats. I suggest Valspar, Pittsburgh or Benjamin Moore top of the line wall paint. These brands work well for straight out of the bucket use and are application friendly. Sherwin Williams is not my first choice because the coverage is poor and you will have to apply multiple coats but, it does apply, fluently. If you find a product does not apply well, maybe it is to heavy and/or sagging on the wall, you may need to thin the paint with a little water, this will reduce the coverage but make the paint flow better and lay down nicer on the surface. I do recommend latex paints for all applications, these days a good high end latex is as good as oil paint and your tools clean up much easier, it will also be less harsh on the respiratory system. The only situation I recommend oil paint, is as a primer/stain blocker over stains that "bleed" through the paint. You can get a stain blocking oil primer in a convenient spray can and spot prime any trouble areas before painting and in the case you need to prime all of the wall due to smoke or water damage, I recommend getting it in gallons and rolling it on where the stains are present. Don't forget proper ventilation and/or a respirator when using the oil based primers! When you are including the finishing touches on a area with accessories, make sure that you remember this one important thing.. It is important to know which color is dominant. Do you desire for things to stay that way? Now highlight the main color with your accessories. Using accessories like paintings, throw pillows and baskets in bolder colors can help detract attention from other parts of the room.
The first step is to cover the surface with a coat of paint, using your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the surface is still wet, take the dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or the bristles into the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will be clusters of dots. Every few minutes wipe the brush with a cloth, to keep the bristle ends clean and dry. Color - The paint makers are out to sell the lady of the house and color is their come-on. They are tempting her with a kaleidoscope's variety; one firm offers more than 6,000 different shades. We've devised a simple, full proof way to determine whether you are Light or Deep. Look at your overall complexion, eye and hair color. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lightest and 10 being the deepest, determine where you fit. So, a 1 would be the palest Nordic complexion with light blond hair. A 10 would be the deepest ebony skin tone and dark or black hair. So, for example: most Mediterranean and Middle Easterners have dark eyes and deep skin and are, therefore, Deep. Most Northern Europeans have blonde hair and light eyes and are Light. Where do you fall? Give yourself a number. If you fall anywhere from 1 to 4 then you are a Light. If you are 5 or greater you are on the Deep side. Step five: pick your colors and start applying them to your penciled outlined images...make sure to mix the paints with a little Galkyd. Painting right out the tube is probably a bad idea, and it'll take forever to dry. Mix the Galkyd pretty evenly with the paint until you reach your desired thickness of paint. Less Galkyd keeps the paint thick. More makes it thinner. A safe start for a painting subject is a still life, like a bowl of fruit. No matter what you do...within reason...it'll look cool. You do not have to make a twig brown or an apple red just because nature says so. Use your imagination. Do something different. Collectors over time like to watch you evolve painting by painting anyway. So don't worry if your first painting stinks in your mind. It'll be interesting later once you're great. And by the way, most famous paintings have an under drawing, so they've used this layout technique I mention above. Sorry to tell you, most inspired paintings were planned out with pencil first. They did not happen spontaneously. They were built logically and in a defined order so that the end result looks right.