Wood Walls and Trim. New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain of the wood, the surface may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used as a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be applied over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.
Paint should not be applied to a concrete basement floor until the concrete has aged for at least a year. The floor should be dry when painted, the best time for application being during the winter or early spring (assuming there is some heating apparatus in the basement), when the humidity in the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are required on an unpainted floor, and the first coat should be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it should be protected with a coat of floor wax.
Like this, it will actually take quite a while to reach a number that is close enough to the yellow color you've chosen that you can't tell any difference (and mathematically, you will never actually reach an average of 4!)
Now here comes the fun part doors and wood work. This is where most people opt to use latex which is a huge mistake. Your home is your biggest investment don't cut corners on it's aesthetics. You want the finish on your woodwork to stand out from the walls especially if you have crown moulding or waynes coating. Don't be fooled by water based products that claim to give the look and finish of oil. It's just good marketing preying on people's fears of painting with oil. Don't believe the hype as those samples they show you have 3 or 4 coats that have been professionally sprayed in a dust free environment. You will not get the same results I can promise you that. You have a choice of semi-gloss or gloss finish. I prefer gloss because to me it gives you a bit more durability and shine. Either one will be fine for your project. Now let's get started.
Take off the chrome molding around both the windshield and rear window. You can pick up a special tool at your local Mustang shop or by mail order that removes these quickly without scratching paint. Of course your paint is probably not in great shape at the moment, so a large flat screw driver will also do the trick. For some classic cars it makes sense to even remove the windshield, but classic Mustangs have chrome molding that will help cover any slight overspray.
Selecting a Shop. You should always get quotes from at least 2-3 different shops near you. This will give you a chance to not only compare prices, but to also check out the quality of work each shop has done. Ask to see cars they've just painted. Look for orange peel or excessive overspray. Do they mostly do insurance work or do they paint entire cars also? What types of cars are they working on? A shop that sprays nothing but old beaters probably doesn't inspire as much confidence as one that does insurance work for the local Lexus or Mercedes dealer.
Traditionally, the solvents or VOCs and other chemicals used to make paints easier to apply give off toxic fumes that seep into the atmosphere for years after application. Paints with reduced or no VOCs are healthier for decorators and the people whose homes are painted with them.